As we set sail from Aasiaat north to Qeqertarsuaq, we were greeted by a whale among icebergs of all sizes. It must have been a sign of good luck because we had the calmest seas and the brightest sunshine all the way to the northernmost point of our journey. The closer we got to Disko Island, the bigger and more numerous the icebergs became, and sailing among these huge masses of ice can be a real challenge.
Our amazing skipper and sailing crew managed to guide us safely through the bay, and as we entered a small natural harbour, we came across a barrier of icebergs that could have impeded our entry. In fact, though, they weren’t the real challenge—it was the anchorage that wasn’t in our favour. After three failed attempts to anchor, one of which involved getting caught on an old fishing line and a muddy seabed, our perseverant pro crew won the battle, and we finally settled at anchor. Our neighbour, just a couple of boat lengths away? An iceberg. And that meant an overnight iceberg anchor watch.
Photo credit: Winnie Courtene-Jones
As I stood my iceberg anchor watch at the northernmost point of the expedition, I couldn’t help but think how wonderful this place is. Bare mountains with just a hint of green tumbled into the sea, while icebergs lined the coast below them, and the night sky glowed beneath the midnight sun. It was 00:15, yet the sky was light blue, with rays of sunlight peeking out from behind the mountains. A cold breeze drifted across the water, seagulls circled overhead, and the colourful village of Qeqertarsuaq lay in the background. Blue, red, pink, green, yellow, white, and even teal houses and buildings make up this beautiful town.
As we headed south the following morning, the calm seas and brilliant sunshine stayed with us, and we even experienced a heat wave in Sisimiut. The sea was so glassy that it mirrored the sky. Then, as we approached the coordinates 66°33′42″N, the wind picked up. As tradition dictates when making a milestone crossing, we prepared for the Arctic Circle crossing.
Boreas Rex of the Arctic seas sent us a special message, saying that he was pleased to have us navigating his waters in the name of scientific research. As a result, he had kept the seas calm and glassy and wished us fair winds and safe passage into the mighty realm of Neptune that awaited us beyond the Arctic Circle.
With blue noses and dark chocolate, we celebrated the crossing, hoping for calm seas and favourable winds for the final stretch of the expedition. Oh, and once in Neptune’s realm, we made the traditional wish for orca sightings by offering a lock of hair. We still have a few nautical miles left for Neptune to hear that request!
Photo credit: SOFIA NOGUÉS SEGURA
