ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM  TONGATAPU TO VAVA’U

After a welcome coffee at the beautiful Waterside restaurant we made our way to the wharf to join SV WindShift. Luggage on board, unpacked, excited conversations and more welcome teas and coffees we had our first briefing. A delicious lunch of chickpea salad and watermelon. Wonderfully refreshing.

Photo credit: Pallavi Davé

The South Pacific III has the fascinating role of researching both plastics in the ocean and on land. Our research kicked off with a litter transact recording details of litter (all types) within a randomly selected sample. We had some fun going through some practical training to complement all the pre-voyage online training course.

Photo credit: Amanda Ayliffe

Armed with our debris tracker App, bright green gloves, a measuring rule and paper bags for collecting unidentifiable small fragments, we were now ready for action. The ten of us were also beginning to attract some attention!

We met a lovely nurse from New Zealand who has spent a week training local doctors and nurses, she had met one of our crew earlier and was thrilled to know we were part of her mission. She was very enthusiastic about our research work and excitedly described how we were becoming quite famous locally, even the taxi driver knew all about us. It was lovely to hear how she is following eXXpedition exploring how her son might do similar research work with his school back home in NZ.

Photo credit: Amanda Ayliffe

Whilst the amount of plastic packaging in the local convenience stores was shocking, we had encouraging moments too. This included a lovely warm welcome from a food vendor, they looked at us a little quizzically – especially at our bright green gloves again! However, a few smiles and chat about what we were doing, and why, was met with enthusiastic story telling from the store team. They explained how the local churches were running community clean up events every month in allocated areas. This had become quite competitive! We learnt that the collected plastic waste is then crushed and used as a filler material in road construction.

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM  TONGATAPU TO VAVA’U

Second day with eXXpedition Tonga crew and the first day on the beach. We spilt into two groups. One team went to the East side of Tongatapu and the other team went to the West side. We need to confirm with the data, but we suspect we will see differences in the amount and kind of plastic pollution between the two sites. This is due to the wind direction and position of Tongatapu. The East side of the island gets the prevailing winds, and with this wind comes more plastic from offshore.

To collect data, we use an app called Debris Tracker (you can download the app here). The science team at the University of Georgia has preset the sampling sites for us, so we know exactly where to survey. Once we arrive, we measure out the transect sampling area and transects. We sample five transects that are ten meter long and five meters wide. The data we collect is uploaded to the science team through the Debris Tracker app, allowing them to then analyse data from all the eXXpedition locations.

Beach survey at East Coast of Tonga Anahulu Caves beach

Video credit: Pallavi Davé

WEST SIDE TEAM

We have some initial observations from our trip to the west while we await the data analysis. Here, plastic was hidden in the mangroves, likely getting trapped in the roots system. Mangroves are natural filters for marine ecosystems, mitigating coastal erosion and the effects of freshwater runoff. Unfortunately, it looks like plastic also gets caught up in the mangrove filtering system.

The plastic on the beach looked older, for example, faded from the sun and broken into smaller pieces, than the plastic closer to land.

After we finished the beach transects, we completed land-based sampling in a local village. We didn’t find as much plastic and our taxi driver let us know that in this village, people clean the street in front of their house daily.

EAST SIDE TEAM

Our first stop was Anahula beach where we noticed the plastic was further up above the hightide line. As with the West, tangled in the plants above the high tide line was a mixture of plastics: fragments, picnic items, flipflops, cups, bottles. Anahula beach is only about 100 meters, which is the length of our transect. It was difficult to tell which plastic pollution may have come from offshore or the land. Later, we will analyse collected samples with the FTIR to shed some light on what types of plastic we found and for how long the plastic had been in the environment.

Next stop was outside a local landfill where we were attacked by mosquitos. Our surveys were parallel to the landfill. Along one transect, was a bright, pink-patterned large piece of fabric. As we walked the transect, we noticed that pieces of this fabric had broken off and migrated away from the main piece. This bright pink fabric mirrors what happens with plastic in the Ocean. With time, it breaks down, moves around, and shows up elsewhere.

Why not try data collection in your neighbourhood? It’s free to use and easy to understand. Download it here.

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM  TONGATAPU TO VAVA’U

After settling in on the boat we went out to do our first science of the trip.

Today we were working in land in Nuku’alofa.

We were split into 3 survey groups: for convenience stores, grocery stores and food vendors. We are trying to understand what packaging these stores and vendors use, to link it back to the pollution we might find in the ocean, beaches and other places on the islands.

After surveying a few food vendors, we came across a special vendor called Weta Coffee Tonga.

Photo credit: Karlijn Sibbel 

Mitna who manages this store was very aware of the challenges with plastic pollution and single-use plastic packaging in particular, and has been making a concerted effort to transition to alternative solutions. She now sells their delicious baked goods (our personal favourite was the chunky chocolate chip cookie) in paper bags and uncoated cardboard trays, and provides paper straws for cold drinks served in bioplastic cups made from PLA. She noted that her paper coffee cups still contain traditional plastic on the inside, something she hasn’t yet found an alternative for.

Photo credit: Karlijn Sibbel 

She told us that sourcing these alternative solutions is a humongous task and more expensive than sourcing the widely available traditional plastic cups. These alternatives are not sold on the island so she has to import them herself from New Zealand and when we spoke to her, she had been waiting for a delayed delivery for 2 months.

Photo credit: Karlijn Sibbel 

Although there are no industrial composting facilities on the island that will compost the PLA cold cups (bioplastic) – which needs special elevated temperatures to break down – she is still making the most effort she can to move away from fossil based plastics. Determined to make a difference.

It was very interesting and inspiring to learn about her experiences and her passion for tackling plastic pollution in Tonga.

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM BAY OF ISLANDS TO TONGATAPU

Today we gathered with several members of the Tongan government and local high school students to present our mission for eXXpedition.

We held the audience captive with our detailed overview of our voyage from New Zealand, our purpose and plastic-free solutions they could implement. We had wonderful discussions about different solutions to the plastic crisis in Tonga and how they could best empower themselves.

We greatly enjoyed speaking with the local high school students, who were eager to learn about the expedition. It was empowering afternoon for all, with ideas shared and friendships made!

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM BAY OF ISLANDS TO TONGATAPU

It was movie night at Minerva Reef and after a late dinner I was able to keep the tired crew awake enough with a community screening 1 hour cut of the movie Plastic Detox. (Full cut available to watch on Netflix)

Watching the young couples on screen struggle with their health and fertility and learning about the countless unregulated chemicals found in plastic that we are exposed to daily was an eye opening experience. Although the film focused on the typical overpackaged and processed US diet, cleaning products, cosmetic and healthcare products, and microplastic exposure from common kitchen ware, the message was universal to our international crew of women.

Some of the staggering statistics shared in the movie stood out and were discussed amongst our crew:

•⁠ ⁠There are over ~70,000 chemicals used in everyday products that lack significant analysis for toxicity.
•⁠ ⁠The link between endocrine/hormone disrupting chemicals found in a study on select hair care products found that the earlier age a women started using hair care products the earlier age they have their period. With 15% of girls now begin puberty by age 7 with an increase risk to breast and uterine cancer due to the increased exposure to the hormone estrogen. (Jasmin A. McDonald, PhD)
•⁠ ⁠The disproportionate exposures to women of color not only by the hair products used but the continued exposures in the front line and fence line communities of petrochemical plants, also known as “cancer alley” (Sharon Levine, Founder, Rise St. James and Rev. Lennox Yearwood Jr)
•⁠ ⁠“If a pregnant woman is exposed to a toxic chemical she is exposing the reproductive organs of three generations.” – Philip Landrigan, MD, Director, Global Health, Boston College
•⁠ ⁠There are only 9 chemicals banned in personal care products in the US, with over 1,100 in the EU!

Great questions were asked and personal stories shared about health, fertility and how toxic chemicals and plastic pollution are regulated and “managed” across our diverse communities from Oman, to the UK to Norway…

It became apparent that our own boat was in need of an upgrade in kitchen utensils, pots and pans and plastic “glassware.” I noticed a few of the crew switching to their ceramic coffee cups to have their morning cereal.

Many asked where they can find information on alternatives to plastic and I was so pleased to share Plastic Pollution Coalition’s plastic free living guides and website for more information.

If you haven’t already, I encourage you to watch the movie on Netflix with family and friends. There are many other ways you can make a difference, including:

• Hosting a screening in your community
• Learn more about what your household products and build environment are made of
• Support more regulatory restrictions on the chemicals used
• Support legislation to reduce the rampant production of plastic pollution

Plastic is pollution by design, contaminating our recycling system, environment and bodies. It’s stories like Plastic Detox that help start the conversations needed to drive change.

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM BAY OF ISLANDS TO TONGATAPU

There isn’t any way to truly describe the magic that is Minerva. A crescent shaped safe-haven amidst the miles of unrelenting ocean. She is otherworldly, like water rushing across the surface of Mars, leaving us awestruck by her immense beauty and the stories she must hold. As though the history of the ocean and those who came before us could be simply breathed in through the air around us. And as the waves crashed on her outer edge, I was reminded of all the balance necessary for a world like ours to exist. The ocean is beautiful and calm, violent and scary. A place of solace and cleansing and connection, but also a place of challenge and patience and perseverance. Mostly it’s a place of life – the canary in the coal mine giving us the pulse of this one sweet earth.

And even here on Minerva, hundreds of miles from civilization, we find evidence of human impact.

Photo credit: Ellen Reynolds

When we find ourselves endangering everything from the microscopic surface life to the creatures of the deepest seas, I question how good we are for this planet – how happy she might be to heal from all we’ve done. I like to imagine a future where we understand that we exist as part of an ecosystem, and not in spite of it. That our lands are not only ours to claim, but they belong to the spiders and bees and squirrels equally. That our oceans are not here to be conquered, but here to be seen and loved and honoured.

A future where we align ourselves with an understanding that all the world has to give is not inherently ours to take.

Mindful musical mantra: It’s Ok by Nightbirde

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM BAY OF ISLANDS TO TONGATAPU

After nearly a week of at sea with a lot of rain, sea sickness, high waves and to be honest, not feeling great, we made it to the beautiful Minerva Reef in the middle of the South Pacific.

Suddenly the sun came out and the water looked turquoise and not black anymore. We could continue with our research, once again getting our manta trawl into the water, followed by jumping into the Pacific at sunset ourselves, celebrating the crew effort of getting here. 

The night was the first night nobody had to be on watch, which felt great. After trying to sleep through such rough conditions, this time we were actually just being gently rocked to sleep. 

Our skipper Maisie cooked us a fantastic stir fry with loads of veggies so we could get our vitamins in. The next morning we did some laundry (life at sea feels better with some fresh clothes) and our warrior, Bonita, treated us to pancakes and fantastic overnight oats.

Natascha led a mindful circle, making sure we breathed deeply and also shook our booties and relieved the stress that had built up in our bodies, making sure we didn’t forget to connect deeply with ourselves and with each other. 

As music connects across borders, we will now share a song with you in each blog post so you can feel closer to us.

The song of the day from our pirate radio station: Natasha Bedingfield: Unwritten 

Sending you a little sea breeze to wherever you are. 

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM BAY OF ISLANDS TO TONGATAPU

From Hannah: Hello from all on board SV Wind Shift on day four of our voyage. We have cycled through all the types of fun since leaving the Bay of Islands on Wednesday – the weather has not been overly kind to us, but Skipper Maisie and Mate Hannah have taken it all in their stride with aplomb as the rest of us find our sea legs. I was hoping mine might be mermaid like but they still very much look like legs.

Getting wiped out by waves aside, highlights include shooting stars, flying fish, rainbows (accompanied by lowlight, rain) and an albatross swooping around us. The weather has been too rough to do any water testing yet (we have all tested plenty of it on our faces), but we did some good land-based surveys in Opua before departing, and are hopeful the weather will perk up enough to get testing soon!

From Bonita: The last few days onboard SV Wind Shift have been truly challenging, for all, with the weather conditions being more severe than expected or hoped for. This has resulted in great camaraderie and support for each other. The weather has been an equaliser for all on board and we are no longer strangers.

Best experiences so far have been how beautiful the stars are at night with the Milky Way so bright. A truly humbling experience was on a night shift when a wave actually broke into the cockpit like the biggest bucket of water being tipped on your head and watch as the cracker snack box floats down the cockpit towards the helm. The only thing a very wet team could do was laugh.

From Elayne: The sea has humbled us and made us bow on bended knee (and splits!) when her rogue waves crashed into the cockpit, not to mention in the heads as well… She’s reminded us of her power but also beauty. Cold starlit nights and sunny days interspersed with rain and 4m swell has tested our crew, some to their limits, but with teamwork, encouragement, ginger gummies and morale boosting chocolate cake (courtesy of Auntie Raewyn) we rallied through, wearing our bruises like badges of honour and our foul weather gear like a suit of armour.

Despite the challenging sailing conditions, damp bunks and 20 degree (but feels like 45 degree) living angle, I’ve loved our voyage so far! Making friends in a such a short space of time is priceless and I’d do it all again! Bring on the rest of the voyage!

From Jackie: It’s been a rough first few days at sea for me.

Literally and figuratively, with sustained wind speed at 25 knots with gusts up 35 knots and confused seas of swells from 3-5 meters, keeping my wits up and my food down has been a bit of a challenge. Our Team Leader along with our Skipper and First Mate have been working double duty keeping the boat on course us all fit and fed.

Now I know why we were wished “fair winds and following seas”.

We are into day 4 our journey and although we haven’t had favourable weather, today has showed some glimpses of sun, plenty of rainbows and I am in better spirits and able to hold down some food. The crew has bonded in unexpected ways and we are looking forward to sharing our stories and doing science aboard when the weather allows.

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM BAY OF ISLANDS TO TONGATAPU

I spent a solid hour with my little one in tears last night. He’d become aware that I would not be present for his talent show at school.  The one he’s been practicing and building hype for. The one where he intends to break dance while two girls sing a slow duet from a musical.  Believe me, this isn’t something I want to miss either.  I can’t even begin to imagine what it might look like in action.  If nothing else, I’d like to bear witness to such a complicated task.

I snuggled him while he fought to catch his breath.  Deep sadness, soundless sobs. 

“I want you to be there, mama.”

“I want to be there too.”

“I’m sad you won’t be there.”

“I’m sad about that too, bud.”

“So just don’t go then.”

“It isn’t that simple.”

On Thursday I begin the trek from Maine to New Zealand.  Rockland to Boston.  Boston to Houston.  Houston to Auckland.  Auckland to Kerrikerri.  35 hours and two calendar days later than I departed, I will arrive.  Two days after that, I set my feet aboard a research sailing vessel, and begin the sail from Bay of Islands, New Zealand to Nuku’alofa, Tonga.  

This was a choice.  It’s true that I don’t want to miss the talent show or the dance performances that take place while I’m gone.  I don’t want to miss the soccer games and track meets and day-to-day operations with my family.  As many mothers probably feel, I both need some time for myself, and deeply miss the moments I don’t get to have with my children.  It is a perpetual dichotomy, in which every chosen direction feels met with equal sacrifice.

I am a scientist by education.  A marine ecologist.  I am a scientist by trade as well.  A fisheries biologist.  But with children who are 9 and 11, I haven’t worked in these fields since their lives began.  When my first son was ten days old I started a master’s program in International Logistics Management.  “I’ll be home anyway” I thought, completely unaware of the workload early motherhood actually was.  Why not master a completely new subject with my extensive leisure time??  As it turns out, some children are capable of not sleeping at all for the first year of their lives.  

Still, I got that degree.  Had a second son.  Bought an inn and held down the fort while my husband continued to ship out for work as a marine engineer.  That’s what moms do: a little bit of everything because life requires it.  And over time, the identity of a marine ecologist or fisheries biologist, or expert of anything, really, started to fade away.  I am a mom, first and foremost–and that has been a choice too.  Jill of all trades, master of none as they say.

I have been selected to participate in a research journey with an organization called eXXpedition, studying microplastics in the ocean.  This is an all-women expedition collecting data and telling the story of the global plastic crisis in pursuit of policy change.  My venture is one of many that, together, begin to reveal the impact we have on our ecosystem and illuminate the need for our storyline to change.  This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, with clear and obvious goals toward making a positive impact.  It is meaningful to me to show up in the ways I am able.

I don’t want to miss a second with my children, AND they deserve to see a mother in pursuit of her own growth and happiness.  They deserve to see intentions for good modeled so that they can grow into contributing citizens of tomorrow.  And I deserve to be a complex and multifaceted individual,  with goals and dreams and challenges of my own.

When I was selected for this position, my older son said “Oh my god mama.  You HAVE to do that! That’s so cool!”  Yes, like his brother, he has tired and sad moments where he doesn’t want me to be gone for anything either.  But I also know that he is quietly watching and learning, and they are old enough now to see that moms get to be a lot of different things.  They know me as mom– the maker of snacks and singer of bedtime songs.   They are beginning to know me as I know myself:  a badass scientist, capable of anything, advocating for a better and more sustainable world.  

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ON THE SOUTH PACIFIC EXPEDITION FROM AUCKLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS

After setting off from Auckland, we sailed across the Hauraki Gulf and it wasn’t long before the beautiful Great Barrier Island loomed ahead of us. Sparsely populated with around 1200 residence, the island appeared as an untouched paradise. We headed into Port Fitzroy to anchor and rest our weary sailing bones.

In the morning we disembarked at Katherine Bay to complete a beach plastics survey. For this we inspected the bay for any plastic using evenly spread transects. After logging our data using the Marine Debris Tracker app, we met up with our local partners at Sustainable Coastlines to begin a beach cleanup of the bay.

Photo credit: Maya Baneva Petkova

Situated in the North West of Great Barrier Island, Katherine Bay is quite sheltered from New Zealand’s largest city, however the cleanup revealed a considerable amount of litter from the mainland. Plastic bottles, flip flops, lighters and bottle caps (oh so many bottle caps!) showed up in astonishing numbers. We also gathered a vast collection of synthetic ropes and fishing materials from the commercial and recreational fishers in the Hauraki Gulf, as well as a large amount of construction materials.

Photo credit: Katie Giles

It’s disturbing to see how much plastic waste is washing up on this remote, sparsely populated bay. It’s clear that us humans are impacting parts of the world we have barely stepped foot on, and all of the ocean in between.

As heartbreaking as the results of the clean up were, the feeling of accomplishment our team had after finishing was enormous. I cannot recommend enough for you to find a local clean up group in your community, and share in this feeling of achievement. And if I never see another bottle cap on a beach again, it’ll be too soon.

Photo credit: Zheng “Jinger” Zeng

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